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Thread: Armor-Tuff, Cerakote, Duracoat or other finish

  1. #1

    Default Armor-Tuff, Cerakote, Duracoat or other finish

    I don't know much about these finishes since all my rifles are stainless but my father has given me his 300 Weatherby Classic and it is blued with a wood stock.. I would like to get a good protective coating on this gun.

    Considering I know nothing about the quality and types of coatings along with cost I was hoping one of you guys might be able to recommend a good coating, someone that could do it and about how much it costs..

    In the end I would like to get a good fiber stock and have it ported as well.. I like the light weight of the rifle so if I can weatherize well.. it may replace my trusty Weatherby..

  2. #2

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    I have a Robar NP3'd rifle and several Cerakoted rifles. NP3 is probably tougher but not much, it's kind of like a hard chrome but in black. Cerakote is tough if put on by a good finisher, an amateur with a piss can is probably going to do a ****ty job and apply it incorrectly.

    I will say one thing about Cerakote. It comes in a lot of colors that don't really ever turn out to be the color you are looking for. Flat Dark Earth is baby poop brown, and there is nothing cool or tactical about it. What a mistake, that choice was, but I ended up selling that rifle as it was a tremendous shooter and the guy liked the color. Mil Spec Green is a very nice choice and in most light appears black. But it's a nice dark green.

  3. #3
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    Default

    One other point about Cerokote. It will give a "gritty" finish on tightly fitted internal parts due to the ceramic particles in the material. It is a wonderful finish on the exterior of parts such as the action/barrel/bolt handle/lower iron and so on. Be careful of build-up on tight fitted parts from most finishes.

  4. #4
    Member gunbugs's Avatar
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    The nice thing about NP3 is that you can rest assured it is applied by someone who knows what they are doing. Ro-Bar does a nice job and is worth the extra cost if you want a professional quality product.
    "A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species of exercises, I advise the gun. While this gives moderate exercise to the body, it gives boldness, enterprise, and independence to the mind."

  5. #5

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    Guy's the Robar site says it no longer exists? Did they go out of business?

    I'm going to look into Cerakoted but I am not liking the idea of the gritty finish. Is that "grit" just something you expierience until the parts that are finished have a chance to loosen and build up until they are worked out of the finish. If it is something that will "smooth out" through use that might not be so bad. I am also thinking that if it was a real issue guys wouldn't get it done. Is it more of a personal dislike verses an actual build up issue that would cause the rifle not to function properly due to the build up?

  6. #6

    Default Talk to Phil

    at Glenrock Blue (gunbluing.com). He does Cerakote as well as bluing. He advised me to use Cerakote on a project rifle that he will be getting in a few weeks. He strongly supported the use of Cerakote for the Alaska environment. Give him a call to get your questions answered.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by happytobeinAK View Post
    at Glenrock Blue (gunbluing.com). He does Cerakote as well as bluing. He advised me to use Cerakote on a project rifle that he will be getting in a few weeks. He strongly supported the use of Cerakote for the Alaska environment. Give him a call to get your questions answered.
    Thanks for the contact info.. I will give them a call tomorrow!

  8. #8
    Member alaskabliss's Avatar
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    Do a search and look at huntak's work with Duracoat. Its under Duracoat project I belive. He does very nice work and if he is making an order you may be able to jump in like I did. I have the stuff but have been waiting for winter to start playing with it so have no first hand experiance but have heard nothing but good about it

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dvarmit View Post
    Guy's the Robar site says it no longer exists? Did they go out of business?

    I'm going to look into Cerakoted but I am not liking the idea of the gritty finish. Is that "grit" just something you expierience until the parts that are finished have a chance to loosen and build up until they are worked out of the finish. If it is something that will "smooth out" through use that might not be so bad. I am also thinking that if it was a real issue guys wouldn't get it done. Is it more of a personal dislike verses an actual build up issue that would cause the rifle not to function properly due to the build up?
    I own a small coating business (corsicacoatings.com) and I fully support the use of Cerakote on the outside of firearms. It is a good product and provides good protection but it will cause a "gritty" feel to tightly fitted parts. I coated a CZ 452 I use as a suppressor demo gun in Cerokote about 3 years ago and the action is still not as smooth as it was when it came from the factory....better but not as smooth. The gun is beat around alot and the finish looks like new. I've used it on shotguns, AK's and other loose guns with no functional issues at all. On bolt guns I have had complaints from customers that the bolts are rough but it does not affect the function of the gun. I have stopped using Cerakote primarily because I can use Norrell's Moly Resin with no ill effect and it provides a durable finish and good protection. Moly Resin is heat cured and is a close cousin to the finish Colt uses on their AR's.

    Most of the guns I coat here on the Eastern Shore are duck and goose guns that were left in the boat or truck bed all season and are a real mess when I get them. I coat them with Duracoat and have no complaints. Duracoat will scuff but once it is fully cured (30 days) it is a good protective coating.

    For those of you who want to do it yourself, Duracoat is not hard to apply but like most finishes it is the prep that makes the differance in how it lasts and protects. The best finish is over a sandblasted (with 100-110grit) finish and degreased with acetone, heat it to about 120 degrees with a heat gun and spray it with an airbrush or small gravity feed HVLP gun. 3 or 4 light coats and hang the parts in a dry area to cure. You can handle them in a couple days but it is best to let it cure for 2 weeks before you handle it too much. Duracoat does build up on parts so consider that when coating. I usually do the barreled action less trigger and the bolt handle but not the bolt itself....same with shotguns (pump or semi) I don't do the internal action parts.

    WIth any finish you still need protect the internal parts such as the FCG and action/bolt parts and the bore from rust. The gun needs to be oiled and maintained but the outer finish is protected by whatever coating you put on it. I build custom AR's and I just did one yesterday in Norrell's tan because that is what the customer wanted, but most of done in matte black Duracoat. I have done a few pink ones and a few in Harley orange and black.

    Hope that helps with your decision and if you want to do it yourself I will try to help out with the process.

  10. #10
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    all of the coatings are nice, but they are coatings. you want somehting that will last, hard chrome or nitride is the way to go

  11. #11
    Member fullkurl's Avatar
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    I had my 1988 LH KS .270 Cerakoted.
    It has already seen a ton of abuse...including a hunt off the salt water...finish remains flawless.
    Well worth the price.

    Eddie Fosnaugh in the lower 48 does a great job; and he is reasonable.

    Proud to be an American!

  12. #12
    Member kjsl105's Avatar
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    +1 for cerakote

    Had my carry Kimber RL frame cerakoted and it held up substantially better than my duracoated gear.

    I'd love to try the nitrate finishes as well.


    Any good local cerakoters? send me a PM please

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