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Thread: Small-profile fly-line-to-fly-line knot? Any ideas??

  1. #1
    Member Gr is for Greg's Avatar
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    Default Small-profile fly-line-to-fly-line knot? Any ideas??

    So, this sucks. I was messing with my fly or split shot while fishing down at Bird Creek (probably my first problem, right?) when my fly line, which was floating in the water in front of me, got pushed in between the big rocks I was standing on by the incoming tide. The line got wedged between two humongous rocks, and I was stuck with no recourse but to snap off my line. It's sink-tip line (brand new this season), and the break is completely behind the sinking tip, in the floating portion of the line, probably about 1/3 down the length of the line.

    (Curse word!)

    Am I just screwed? I actually tied a double surgeon knot to reattach the line at the break, but it's a huge knot with two pieces of fly line. I could actually get it to cast, but not very well. It doesn't exactly glide through the guides. I was surprised it went through at all.

    Do any of you know a knot I could use with a slimmer profile? Any other methods of splicing fly line I may not know about? My last resort would be to just cut it at the break, throw out the tip, and use it as another spool of floating line. I think I would still have enough line to throw it as far as I would ever need. All the same, I was liking my sink-tip, and I'm not over-eager to go purchase another length of it for $75!

    Your help and advice is greatly appreciated.
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  2. #2
    Member G_Smolt's Avatar
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    Since the manufacturer probably doesn't warranty that kind of breakage, I would try the following...

    dry out your line for awhile - if there was a coating break and you kept fishing, odds are you wicked water up into the line a bit, and that can cause core / coating slippage if not dried.

    strip off about 3-4 inches of coating off of the core on both broken ends - you can do this by half-hitching 20# mono about 1-1.5" from the end and cinching it tight, then pull the mono tags towards the end of the line...should peel off the coating just fine.

    join the two ends as close to the coated part of the line as possible with butted nail knots, and trim close.

    stretch the knotted portion and, while still under slight stretching pressure, coat the core with aquaseal. let it dry under slight stretching pressure, and be sure to run a little aquaseal up onto the coating to ensure watertightness.

    coat it a few more times, building up to about the thickness of the flyline coating you lost.

    make sure you give it a slight stretch before and after coating, and coat under slight pressure, or slippage may occur.

    I have saved a few nasty beaks with this method, and besides a slight bump going through the guides, it is an almost un-noticeable fix.

  3. #3
    Member danattherock's Avatar
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    Cut your losses (pun intended) and form a loop at the end of the current fly line. To that loop, attach a Rio 15' sink tip ($20 each). You could buy 2-3 of the Rio sink tips in varying weights and have the most versatile sink tip you never intended on buying.





    http://www.cabelas.com/product/Fishi...3Bcat105553080



    -Dan
    The two loudest sounds known to man: a gun that goes bang when it is supposed to go click and a gun that goes click when it is supposed to go bang.

  4. #4

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    Back in the dark ages when we made our own compensated density lines and shooting heads we used to join sections of line all the time. After stripping both- one about 2" and other about 3"- thread the 3" piece onto a needle and "sew" it back and forth a few times through the 2" section, and when you reach the coated portion, just fold the bitter end back along the length of the spice. Use a fly tying bobbin to spin rod wrapping thread tightly over the whole splice. Now coat it with rubber cement. Let dry for about an hour and add another coat. When that is almost no longer tacky, roll it in lock graphite to make it slick. You'll never notice it again.

  5. #5
    Member ak_powder_monkey's Avatar
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    google "fly line weld" you can weld a loop and then attach a shooting head of your choice, enjoy your new running line
    I choose to fly fish, not because its easy, but because its hard.

  6. #6
    Member icb12's Avatar
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    Lots of ways to do it. Tons of different splices and loops out there. I like Gsmolts method, and I've done brownbears splicing method before too. Monkey has a good idea too, requires buying a shooting head though.

    Or you can insert both butts into a peice of 30-50# braided mono, butt them together, drop of superglue where they meet. Whip finish on the ends of the braid, drop of superglue. Go fishing. Works like a chinese fingertrap. Strong and simple. You can notice it when casting. Then again you can notice loops too because of the hinge affect.

  7. #7
    Member DRIFTER_016's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gr is for Greg View Post
    So, this sucks. I was messing with my fly or split shot while fishing down at Bird Creek (probably my first problem, right?) when my fly line, which was floating in the water in front of me, got pushed in between the big rocks I was standing on by the incoming tide. The line got wedged between two humongous rocks, and I was stuck with no recourse but to snap off my line. It's sink-tip line (brand new this season), and the break is completely behind the sinking tip, in the floating portion of the line, probably about 1/3 down the length of the line.

    (Curse word!)

    Am I just screwed? I actually tied a double surgeon knot to reattach the line at the break, but it's a huge knot with two pieces of fly line. I could actually get it to cast, but not very well. It doesn't exactly glide through the guides. I was surprised it went through at all.

    Do any of you know a knot I could use with a slimmer profile? Any other methods of splicing fly line I may not know about? My last resort would be to just cut it at the break, throw out the tip, and use it as another spool of floating line. I think I would still have enough line to throw it as far as I would ever need. All the same, I was liking my sink-tip, and I'm not over-eager to go purchase another length of it for $75!

    Your help and advice is greatly appreciated.
    Relax as there is a solution!!!!!
    Attach a Cortland leader loop to the mainline and the broken tip and loop to loop the connection.
    This is how the multi tip lines are connected and it works fine.
    Try to get the loops all the way onto the line to reduce hinging to a minimum.
    As a bonus you can even use a piece of lead line as a tip when you really want to get down.

    http://www.cabelas.com/product/Fishi...3Bcat103879980

  8. #8
    Member Gr is for Greg's Avatar
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    Thanks all! Some great ideas here. I'll give one or two of them a shot and let you know how it goes.

    -Gr
    My signature is awesome.

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