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Thread: Transom lift

  1. #1

    Default Transom lift

    Working to make wooldridge sport more versatile. I added a transom lift to allow switching from jet to prop. After sucking up kelp in PWS and loosing power I thought the prop would be helpful . However now jet is further back from transom and does not perform as well as it did before. The current outboard is a 200 up. I'm considering 1, lighter outboard and/ or 2, extending tunnel. Any advise?

  2. #2
    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ESB View Post
    Working to make wooldridge sport more versatile. I added a transom lift to allow switching from jet to prop. After sucking up kelp in PWS and loosing power I thought the prop would be helpful . However now jet is further back from transom and does not perform as well as it did before. The current outboard is a 200 up. I'm considering 1, lighter outboard and/ or 2, extending tunnel. Any advise?
    I have a lift on my ob jet and it definetly changed some performance, I would extend the tunnel as far back as possible, I dont know if the sports are like the other woolys?

    The ones I have looked at has a cutout for the foot to swing and the bottom is extended at a angle? Once the extension is done put a rubber flap over and down each side of the tunnel, you can leave the rubber long and trim it if it hits the foot, on mine it was right in the middle if the foot is sucked up tight to the transom.

    This flap will help keep it from cavatating, and once on step you can trim the foot out and find the sweet spot. The lift will help also. I am able to run the jet with the front of the foot almost a inch above the top of the tunnel w/o cavatation. As you raise it up you can feel it pick up a little speed and of course a GPS is handy to verify.

    On my lift it just happened to work out that all the way up is about a inch, I wouldnt want to go much higher as it will really torture the rubber flap if you install it so its snug on to the tunnel. The UMHW flaps will never stand up to that much flex. The first flap was just rubber and spit after one season, for the second one I used some belted material and its a lot tougher.

    Make sure to leave 3/8" to 1/2" space between the cutout and the front of the foot for clearance, as things flex more than you might think and the foot can bind on the tunnel when under power.

    Do the extension w/o the cutout, raise the motor and bring the foot down with the lift until just above the tunnel, swing the foot and scribe the arc on the extension, then add for clearance.
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

  3. #3

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    AKGramps; Thanks for your response, I am making plans to have the tunnel extended like you mentioned and once that is done I will look into making the rubber extension you described. It seems in an earlier post you mentioned that a jet boat should sit nearly level when at rest. How much of an effect would you expect if in addition to the above changes I also changed the outboard motor to one that weighs approximately 200 lbs less? I ask this because currently with the 200 hp motor the boat seems to sit less than level and I think the 5 inch extension from the transom lift is only making this more of a problem.

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    Member Akgramps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ESB View Post
    AKGramps; Thanks for your response, I am making plans to have the tunnel extended like you mentioned and once that is done I will look into making the rubber extension you described. It seems in an earlier post you mentioned that a jet boat should sit nearly level when at rest. How much of an effect would you expect if in addition to the above changes I also changed the outboard motor to one that weighs approximately 200 lbs less? I ask this because currently with the 200 hp motor the boat seems to sit less than level and I think the 5 inch extension from the transom lift is only making this more of a problem.
    level would be nice as it helps to get on step quicker as it reduces the "hump-over" typical getting a ass heavy boat out of the water. But not always possible. Most IB's set quite flat because of loaction of weight, and typically they get up quick, usally lots more HP & torque also.

    If I remember right the sport has a 72' bottom, which is a huge help. My boat has 60" bottom width. Adding the lift with 5" setback increased the time it took to get on step from 3-4 seconds to almost 9 seconds, a huge number IMO.

    I would think the wider bottom would help a lot? The setback put the back of my boat 3-4 inches farther down in the water when drifting.

    Dropping 200 pounds at the transom would be a big help I am sure, what do you plan to get thats 200 pounds less?
    What lift are you using?

    You might try it with your current motor and see how it sets in the water...........a little bit of work removing the motor and installing the lift. But needs to be done anyway and once on the boat, the motor can be tilted out of the way to do the tunnel extension. If you have a forklift or some type of overhead lift you can just swing the motor out of the way w/o disconnectineg everything and then put the motor right back on the lift. Or you can make a temp lift out of some 2 X 6, a tripod arrangement so to speak. Then roll the boat forward to mount the lift.............Getting a little windy here and I am sure you have all this figured out already...............

    Put the boat in the water and see how it sits. Heck while you are at you may as well test drive it, just use a piece of thin sheet metal on the top of tunnel. Always good to test things as every boat is diffrent.

    Hope this helps...........
    “Nothing worth doing is easy”
    TR

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