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Thread: Esquif Cargo Mods

  1. #1
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    Default Esquif Cargo Mods

    Well finally finished most of the on-water tests on the Esquif Cargo.... First run....stock canoe....2hp yamaha 2stroke....5kts WOT....3/4 throttle 3kts, perfect for trolling.....8hp johnson at between 8-10kts, bottom of boat started pulsating up and down and side to side....the hull obviously needed to be stiffened up a bit.... Modified the following....removed 4th seat.... Installed 3rd seat one seat space forward of fourth seat position ( cut to fit ) Installed thwart in aft hole where 4th seat used to be. Installed two thwarts in old 3rd seat position holes. Installed thwart aft of 1st seat. So four thwarts, one yoke and one less seat...8hp johnson(2 stroke) at WOT 11.4kts ( all GPS speeds ) bow is up too high, two small kids for balast, slight bottom deformation (pushed up)... No pulsating up, down or side to side....very stable ride...at 8kts bow dropped down and no plowing....at idle 2.4kts, so still good for trolling on either engine. Bouncing over wakes/waves at speed you can see the Royalex hull give a little, bottom flexes up a tad, then pops back into shape....makes for a very dampened ride...pretty normal properties for Royalex...You need the thwarts full length to provide the rigidity needed...It is a big wide boat for Royalex construction...transom felt very solid with the 8hp (56lbs)...Oh and it seems to paddle very nicely...feels very stable and slippery on the water....Happy Paddling...(all above testing was done on a lake with no current)

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    Piper,

    Very nice report and you experienced all the same things I did with my 9.9 hp, although I had different loading to get much greater deforming of hull at speed. What did you use to make the thwarts? What do you mean by a "full length" for the thwarts? How far apart did you place the thwarts? Pictures would tell the story very well if they are available. Agree....rear seat needs to be moved forward.

    My 3 hp Merc did just fine with 160 lbs in the front seat.

  3. #3
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    Lowrider, the forward thwart is about 9-10" aft of the forward seat's aft mount, the other thwarts are in the factory seat position holes...one each in the 3rd seat holes (double drilled on end of thwart) these are 3/4" X 2 1/2" white oak. The aft thwart is in the old aft mount hole for the 4th seat. Both the for and aft thwarts are Bell Canoe ash and single drilled. I moved the 4th seat position forward by one seat hanger distance, I used the forward seat mount hole (old 4th seat) as the aft mount hole in the new position. The "full length thwarts" just means from the bow to the stern. You could see and feel how much the hull stiffened as the thwarts were installed by trying to twist the hull in the shop. One added bonus of the above mods, the canoe is still balanced at the factory yoke mounted position....

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    Thanks a lot Piper!!

    I'm changing tires on my Harley and as soon as I get that done I'm bringing the Cargo in for these mods. I'm going to use 1 1/2" ALum tube with little tabs welded on the ends to put bolts thru for the thwarts so I can also weld or bolt tie-downs on the tube to keep things from shifting around. There was some discussion back a few weeks when I first got my cargo about making length wise bottom supports to stop the flexing of the bottom when it is heavily loaded. Have you seen any reason to do this do you think your mods so far has fixed the problem of bottom flex? Iwas thinking about running the same 1 1/2" alum tubing from the second seat to new location of the rear seat to stop that movement in the bottom but I was affraid the bottom might wear quickly rubbing against the alum tube. Guess I'll do your mods and see how it works out.

    Thanks again!!

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    Default Hey Mainer!

    I look forward to hearing Mainer's thoughts on this subject; he has a world of experience with boats and especially canoes, and I know he was less than fully satisfied with how his new Esquif Cargo operated. Being a boat-rebuilder type of guy, he's sure to redo his this winter, and by next summer I predict he'll have the most heck-for-strong Esquif Cargo out there.

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    Me too!!

    Bring it on Mainer!!!!

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    Default

    Not much to add to the subject folks as mine is parked for the season. I can't afford a motor for it this season due to rebuilding the other canoe and having to purchase a boat trailer too. Next season I'll throw a 6.5 Copperhead on the back and be done with it. Boudarc and I tested out his with a merc 9.9 two stroke and I was very impressed. We are both 200+lb. guys, a large dog and my son were in the boat at the time. The canoe also paddles very well. Other than a 6.5 copperhead, the 9.8 Tohatsu would be about the best motor for this canoe.

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    Mainer,

    Haven't gotten mine in yet to work on. #3 son has my Bandit torn apart to paint and I have a leaking seal on my little Kubota tractor to fix. It's too darn hot to be on the water anyway...107F with heat index to around 120F....humid and miserable. I'm leaving for Sturgis Rally on the 5th back the 19th...will get working on it soonest.

    My 9.9 Merc pushed the Cargo really well too if Pipercub's mods stiffen the bottom enough it will be a perfect for longer/faster trips than the 3.3 Merc. I am interested in the copperhead when you get it running.

  9. #9

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    Hi.

    I'm new to this forum but I have really enjoyed reading the different threads, especially those on the Esquif Cargo as I am considering buying one or something simiar. I will just be using a 5hp Honda (60lbs weight) for my modest needs (small lakes and slow, shallow rivers). Would then owners of this canoe readily recommend this boat or would I better off looking at something like the Scott Makobe? I'm lookng for something portable and lightweight and both of thse are in the 100 lbs range. Jsut not sure about the durability of fiberglass? Any advice is really appreciated. Thanks.

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    Hi Ranger46, either of those boats will do the job. You state you may be running shallow rivers....I would go with the royalex over the fiberglass, if you were going to be scraping the bottom much....the royalex is much less maint. also if you scrape the gel coat/epoxy off the fiberglass, it will absorb water and it is amazing how much heavier a fiberglass boat gets, after it starts absorbing water....

  11. #11

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    Hi pipercub. Thanks or the quick reply. That's good advice because I will encounter rocks and scraping on a regular basis. Seems Royalex makes more sense for my needs. I believe you have a Cargo? Do you find it to be a stable boat? I would like to use it with my young kids so that would be important. Also, what motor do you use? It's only rated for 3hp but that seems small for a 17 footer. Any pros or cons you can offer would be great. Again, thanks for the advice.

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    Ranger,

    SO far my Cargo has been pretty stable. I bought it because my wife has a challenge to not fall out of the canoe and so far it has worked for her. I have stood up while underway without any problems and it is OK to stand (for me) and pole the boat. I seem to remember my kids when they were under 6 or so that they seemed to be top heavy and they did fall out of my Grumman a few times but it was becasue they were standing or doing something they should not have been doing. The Cargo is a lot more stable than the Grumman or my Penobscot 16'.

    My 3.3 Merc pushes the boat just fine (6-7 mph) and I have run my 9.9 Merc too and got bottom distortion in the Royalex which is why we are discussing the mods to the thawarts and seats on the Cargo. I think the right motor might be a 5 or 6 hp and play around with the loading of the boat. I ahve a 6 hp but it is a long shaft I use for trolling on my larger boat and that just creates other problems so I have not tried that motor on the Cargo.

    Some of the other guys have more experience than me since I just got mine in the spring and can give better advise on the cargo. My first impressions are it is a pretty nice boat.

  13. #13

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    Lowrider,

    Thanks for the info. I don't plan on using anything bigger than a 5 hp (60 lbs) so I should be ok. Also, I don't want to spend $2000 on a canoe and have to do mods. 6-10 mph would be great for me as well. It's good to know that standing (being careful of course) is not an issue. I would probably only stand to pole the boat anyway, although I like the idea of standing while motoring. I assune you use a tiller extension? Glad tro hear your wife has found her "sea legs" in this canoe. Wonder if I will be able to convince my wife to give it a try. Thanks again and all the best.

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    Ranger46, I have been out about six times in the cargo with a 3 and 5yr. old....The boat is very stable...As you can see from the report below, I'm running a 53lb. 8hp. 2stroke Johnson....you will have no problems with a 60lb motor....the royalex boats do flex some in the midsection bottom, which is why they slide over the rocks better than fiberglass....There is a good reason why most utility type paddling canoes are now made of royalex or polyethylene and not fiberglass.....they just slide over stuff better and require much less maint....

  15. #15

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    Hey pipercub,

    Sounds good. Nice to see the confidence you have in this canoe. Fibergalss is out! Thanks for that. Also, of the Royalex or poly sport canoes that are available, the Cargo appeals to me the most. Can't wait to see one of these in person. It's hard to find pictures or video of this canoe. Thanks yet again. The members on this forum are awesome!

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    http://playak.com/index.php?option=c...650&Itemid=128 hey....Ranger46 hit the above link for a video of the camo cargo....mine is the same, except I ordered the flat transom (no cutout)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger46 View Post
    Lowrider,

    I assune you use a tiller extension? .
    I do on my 9.9 but not on the 3.3 since the throttle is on the motor and not the tiller. I was actually using a piece of rope to steady myself and using weight shift stearing when I stand with the 3.3. It works really well and make sure you have the emergency kill cord attached to you when you stand up under power. If you fall out.... the boat just keeps on going and going and going!!

    I am going to move the rear seat forward to have more room to move the tiller and I saw a picture that someone had added a leaning post to their boat which was an aluminum pipe bent in a semi-circle and attached to the gunnels and that looked like a fine addition to the Cargo. It would need to be removable so the boat could go on the truck rack but it would provide a much better hand hold than a rope. The picture I saw also had rod holders on it.

  18. #18

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    Thanks pipercub. Love the camo. Sharp looking boat. I guess having the flat transom would be the way to go for me as well. A little extra height for the prop.

  19. #19

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    Hi Lowrider. Again, great advice. The leaning post sounds like a great idea. Would love to see a pic if you get that done. Do you have a flat transom as well or is yours cut down? Thanks.

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    Mine is cut down. I bought mine from a dealer who had the boat for 4 years and could not sell it. It was brand new and I took advantage of his desire to get the boat out the door so I made him a low-ball offer and he took it. The shop pretty much was into kevlar and carbon boats and the Cargo was a "barge" in comparison but it was just what I was looking for.

    The grab bar I saw was on a Scott JB or HB and if I recall the owner also used it to put a tarp up over stuff in the middle of the boat. I use dry bags mostly but the ability to put up a tarp to get under in the rain appeals to me. We have had some discussion on putting a canvas top on the Scotts to provide rain and sun protection so that could be carried over to the Cargo. Everytime I mention things like that to my wife she scoffs at me and say just take the other boat with the cabin if it is going to rain...she clearly does not understand the problem!!

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