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Thread: Engineer Review of Cabin - Need Recommendation

  1. #1

    Default Engineer Review of Cabin - Need Recommendation

    Finally settled on building a 28' x 20' cabin using 2"x 6" walls, 12 10" piers, 6" x 10" beams on the piers, 2" x 10" joists and roof, 6" x 10" ridge beam, metal roof. Piers to be at center line and 10" in from each side giving me 8' 6" spacing.

    I want to run this by an engineer to make sure I am not making any mistakes. Does anyone have a recommendation for an engineer around the Anchor Point/Homer area or if an engineer on line does this kind of thing? Any feel for how much a review would run?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Moderator Paul H's Avatar
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    I don't know any structural engineers down that way. If you're going to formally submit your design to have an engineer analize and approve it, he has then put himself in the position of being liable and hence it better be worth his effort to put his name out there. So he's going to do some calculations and write up a report, which I'd be suprised being billed less than 8 hours, and say $100-125/hour for a licensed engineer or $800-1000, and I wouldn't be the least bit offended or shocked if the bill was double that.
    Those that are successful in Alaska are those who are flexible, and allow the reality of life in Alaska to shape their dreams, vs. trying to force their dreams on the reality of Alaska.

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  3. #3
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    Spenard Builders sales guys will have span and load charts. Heck, I've got them. Any framing contractor can tell you go or no-go in about five minutes.

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    Member Dirtofak's Avatar
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    IMO - 2X10 floor and roof is a BAD idea. You cannot insulate it properly. Go to the lumber yeard and look at the insulation. It will tell you how thick it fills. Then leave an air gap on top so it can breathe. You will probably need the cardboard spacers to keep the eave vents open.
    I don't mean to sound bitter, cold, or cruel, but I am, so that's how it comes out.
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  5. #5

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    Thank you, your ball park pricing tells me that it is probably not worth their time/effort. I can think of a lot of things to spend the $1k on too.

  6. #6

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    I'll go that route and see what they say. Do they sell the "Little Black Book" at SBS?

  7. #7

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    What would you recommend for the floor and roof - 2 x 12 or 2 x 8?

  8. #8

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    If you use 2x10's for rafters, you won't have enough room for insulation and venting. You can fix this by using urethane foam in the ceiling, but it is expensive.

  9. #9
    Member Dirtofak's Avatar
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    Use 12" JCIs for the floor. Are you having trusses made or are you stick building the roof?
    I don't mean to sound bitter, cold, or cruel, but I am, so that's how it comes out.
    Bill Hicks

  10. #10
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    I used 2x8 rafters and r19 insulation with 2" airspace. It's worked great for over 20 years. No problem keeping it warm. Too warm is more common. I used 2x12 joists. I could have used 2x10 but the extra stiffness was worth the price premium. 2x4 walls w/ r11 have been more than adequate. It's a cabin.

    gpearston, shoot me a PM if you want span and spacing info. I'll dig out my books tonight. They'll be for dimensional lumber only. No engineered joists. If you're using those get the engineering from the lumber yard for span, spacing, and blocking.

  11. #11
    Member thewhop2000's Avatar
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    As said, go to SBS and have a back door jockey give you the skinny. They are engineers and won't steer you wrong!!!
    If a dipnetter dips a fish and there is no one around to see/hear it, Did he really dip?

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